Hey guys, I've read some websites that gathered surfers feedbacks about what it feels like to surf a wave. It will provide you an insight of why people are so passionate about surfing and why this sport is so addictive !
Joanna G.
“Hope: as in, hoping you paddle your ass hard enough to even catch the wave.
Shock: from the slow realization that you’re actually catching the wave.
Disbelief: Holy shit I’m standing up on it now!
Greed: Hell yaaaaa I’m up now, everyone outta my f*cking way.
Temporary insanity/craze: as you start turning and just gliding on the wave and having funw ith it.
Ecstacy: like floating on air, you’re one with the wave. Hope again/desperation: as you’re trying to prolong this awesomeness, you just don’t want it to end.
Euphoria: OMG that was FRIGGEN’ AWESOME!!! Disbelief: Wow, did that really just happen?? Did I just do that?!? Let’s do it again…”
A big Wave Fanatic
"Surfing is a special kind of madness. It is a culmination of love, respect,knowledge and fear- The ocean is our dance floor. The second we paddle out to the line up we are asking the ocean for a dance and she will either willfully accept by letting connect as one on the wave or decline.
I remember when i first started surfing....I was scared and my stomach was a twisted knot of pain, and every time I went to stand up on a wave I would fall down (hard) and get hurt. It wasn't until my fifth hard fall that I realized, surfing is mental...it is all about your state of mind. If you are scared and don't think you can do it, then you wont but if you are confident and sure of your surfing while paddling into a wave, you will charge that wave like nothing. I love surfing more than anything else in this world and it is my dream to surf every single break there is in this world. Although i am not a pro or completely experienced i am determined to stare down the face of a 35 foot giant at mavericks or a razor sharp coral reef at pipeline...keep on surfing and dont give up on your dreams of doing it, you are your own unique surfer and dont let anybody tell you that you can't do it..because you can as long as your have the heart and determination to do it..I did."
Kathy Pommet
Riding a wave is like the “Perfect Storm”. A simultaneous occurrence of events that provide an opportunity to become “One with Nature” while experiencing the magical feeling of “flying” we imagined as kids along with the sense of achievement that we crave as adults. Total fulfillment on all levels; hence the addiction.
Ron
When you are waiting for a wave your mind can think a thousand different things. when you paddle for a wave your mind thinks of only a few things. when you catch a wave your mind thinks of only one thing, that one thing is joy. This is why I surf.
Annabel Candy
There’s no greater feeling than surfing and that feeling of being part of the ocean, really riding on top of the world. Surfing’s freedom, adventure and creativity rolled into one. It’s easy to see why surfers love surfing so much and I also love teaching newbies to surf so they can experience that joy. There’s only one place you can get that feeling and it’s in the surf.
Dave Doolin
It feels like the moment you’re in is where you’re supposed to be; ‘only a surfer knows the feeling
Dave Aabo
It feels kind of like an orgasm. You spend alot of time trying to get it. It doesn’t last very long, but it feels really good when it does.
Watch this video, it shows a perfect vision of how it feels like to surf a wave.
Sources:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/surfing/sites/features/pages/surfing_love.shtml
Teahupo'o
Teahupo'o
Some surfing spots totally redefine where the limits are.
Teahupoʻo, in the island of Tahiti, French Polynesia, southern Pacific Ocean is seen as one of the World’s heaviest wave. It can reach from 2 (7 feet) to 7 meters (21 feet).
Teahupo’o is an aspiration for nearly all surfers. Many of them will remember for life their experience of this curious nature !
The annual Billabong Pro Tahiti surf competition takes place there. In 2014, Gabriel Medina was the winner.
Surfers experimenting Teahupo’o
- The bodyboarders Mike Stewart and Ben Severson were the first to surf Teahupo'o in 1986 and it soon became an underground spot for thrill-seeking bodyboarders !
- In 2000, Laird Hamilton is credited with surfing the "heaviest wave" ever ridden. It graced the cover of many surf magazines and a story in the film Riding Giants.
Here is an extract of the documentary:
Feedback of Laird Hamilton :
- In 2003 the Malik Joyeux successfully rode one of the largest waves ever ridden.
- Later on, in 2008, Ian Walsh towed the biggest Teahupoʻo wave of the season.
- Keala Kennelly was the first woman to tow-surf Teahupo'o in May 2005, getting a 10-foot barrel ahead of the Billabong Tahiti Pro contest.
What is so famous about this spot? The wave Characteristics...
Teahupo’o has only been surfed for about 15 years for a good reason. In fact, people thought it was far too steep to surf it. Teahupo'o's legendary reputation is partly due to its unique shape. In fact, the very shallow and specific form of the coral reef, ranging up to 20 inches underneath the water's surface, is responsible for an extremely hollow-breaking wave. It then gives an effect of almost breaking below sea level.
If you are interested about the explanation of Teahupo’o’s waves, look at this site.
Slow motion Teahupo'o's wave:
Photographer Ben Thouard made this great video of Teahupoo from underwater. Enjoy…
Teahupo'o is not only famous for it's amazing size and effect. It is commonly referred to the "heaviest wave in the world" and recorded as one of the 'Top 10 Deadliest Waves' according to Transworld. The name 'Teahupo'o' is sometimes translated as “to sever the head” or "place of skulls". There have been 5 recorded deaths at Teahupo'o since 2000.
High innovative and technology surfboards
Surfsens : a high technology surfboard with integrated sensors
High innovative and technology surfboards
Surfsens : a high technology surfboard with integrated sensors
"To turn feelings into facts"
The Spanish companies Tecnalia Research & Innovation and Pukas have cooperated to offer a revolutionized surf board. They created a high-performance surfboard with integrated sensors. It will enable the surfers to record data of surfing parameters in real time which means while riding waves. It is important to have the data to analyse a performance and track the movements.
What is it useful for ?
- Surfboard manufacturers: to have valuable information to produce optimal performance surfboards
- Surfers: to have full information about their surfing technique
- Surfing competition: easier measurement of parameters that are scored
The boards integrates gyroscopes, accelerometers, compass and GPS that record data of the surfboard accelerations, speed and movements. Pressure sensors have been incorporated to get data about the surfer's feet position. Gauges have been included to record the flex and torsion of the surfboard in real operation. After the end of the surf session, data is transmitted over wifi to a PC.
The professional surfers Aritz Aranburu, Hodei Collazo, Kepa Acero and Mario Azurza have already tested the surfboard.
Surfboard with LEDs integrated
New innovative boards have also been designed by Pukas and the adventurer named Indo. You now can find on the market surfboard with LEDs integrated. To make it work you need to plug it, charge it and then you can surf at night in the dark! Different colours are available such as red, pink, blue and green.
The cost is apparently $ 2000. There are limited editions but due to their success thanks to social media, Pukas produced more than expected.
This type of board has been surfed in 5 different countries of 3 different continents: Spain, Portugal, France, Morocco and Brazil.
Apparently, the lights of the board attracts fishes, what about sharks…?
Below is a video of the small exhibition in Almaciga Beach
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