Hey guys, I've read some websites that gathered surfers feedbacks about what it feels like to surf a wave. It will provide you an insight of why people are so passionate about surfing and why this sport is so addictive !
Joanna G.
“Hope: as in, hoping you paddle your ass hard enough to even catch the wave.
Shock: from the slow realization that you’re actually catching the wave.
Disbelief: Holy shit I’m standing up on it now!
Greed: Hell yaaaaa I’m up now, everyone outta my f*cking way.
Temporary insanity/craze: as you start turning and just gliding on the wave and having funw ith it.
Ecstacy: like floating on air, you’re one with the wave. Hope again/desperation: as you’re trying to prolong this awesomeness, you just don’t want it to end.
Euphoria: OMG that was FRIGGEN’ AWESOME!!! Disbelief: Wow, did that really just happen?? Did I just do that?!? Let’s do it again…”
A big Wave Fanatic
"Surfing is a special kind of madness. It is a culmination of love, respect,knowledge and fear- The ocean is our dance floor. The second we paddle out to the line up we are asking the ocean for a dance and she will either willfully accept by letting connect as one on the wave or decline.
I remember when i first started surfing....I was scared and my stomach was a twisted knot of pain, and every time I went to stand up on a wave I would fall down (hard) and get hurt. It wasn't until my fifth hard fall that I realized, surfing is mental...it is all about your state of mind. If you are scared and don't think you can do it, then you wont but if you are confident and sure of your surfing while paddling into a wave, you will charge that wave like nothing. I love surfing more than anything else in this world and it is my dream to surf every single break there is in this world. Although i am not a pro or completely experienced i am determined to stare down the face of a 35 foot giant at mavericks or a razor sharp coral reef at pipeline...keep on surfing and dont give up on your dreams of doing it, you are your own unique surfer and dont let anybody tell you that you can't do it..because you can as long as your have the heart and determination to do it..I did."
Kathy Pommet
Riding a wave is like the “Perfect Storm”. A simultaneous occurrence of events that provide an opportunity to become “One with Nature” while experiencing the magical feeling of “flying” we imagined as kids along with the sense of achievement that we crave as adults. Total fulfillment on all levels; hence the addiction.
Ron
When you are waiting for a wave your mind can think a thousand different things. when you paddle for a wave your mind thinks of only a few things. when you catch a wave your mind thinks of only one thing, that one thing is joy. This is why I surf.
Annabel Candy
There’s no greater feeling than surfing and that feeling of being part of the ocean, really riding on top of the world. Surfing’s freedom, adventure and creativity rolled into one. It’s easy to see why surfers love surfing so much and I also love teaching newbies to surf so they can experience that joy. There’s only one place you can get that feeling and it’s in the surf.
Dave Doolin
It feels like the moment you’re in is where you’re supposed to be; ‘only a surfer knows the feeling
Dave Aabo
It feels kind of like an orgasm. You spend alot of time trying to get it. It doesn’t last very long, but it feels really good when it does.
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