How to ride a wave ?

Surfing

Surfing is a sport of passionate people feeling the intensity with rushes of adrenaline combined with the power of the nature: the ocean. It is a water sport in which surfers ride breaking waves into shore on a surfboard. This sport can be practiced by people at all levels of ability. 

How it feels like to surf a wave

Hey guys, I've read some websites that gathered surfers feedbacks about what it feels like to surf a wave. It will provide you an insight of why people are so passionate about surfing and why this sport is so addictive !